Slovakia, the Czech Republic's less glamorous partner, emerged dishevelled and sleepy after the 'Velvet Revolution' of 1989. Although it's now holding its own in a rebuilding Eastern bloc, there's a refreshing absence of Prague-style glitz and glamour. It's a land of real spirit, where folk traditions have survived the domination of foreign rulers and where a plethora of castles and chateaux pay testament to untold wars and civil conflicts. Strike up a conversation at a bar with any of the locals and you'll be pleased to find an intelligent, engaging and friendly person at the other end.

Best time to visit

May and June for the sunny weather or before Bratislava becomes sold as 'the new Prague.

Essential experiences

Roaming the crumbling ruins of Spis, Slovakia's largest castle; discovering Levoca, a medieval walled town and a treasure-chest of Renaissance architecture; wandering around, wining and dining in the bustling, old town of Bratislava; luxuriating in the spa at Bardejovske Kupele; exploring the caves of Slovak Karst; following the crowd to Bojnice, the most visited chateau in Slovakia.

In a few words, Slovakia is

The poor sister of the Czech Republic, Stalinist architecture, high-rise apartment blocks, farmers, villages and mountains.

Did you know?

The largest meteor ever to hit Europe landed near the East Slovakian town of Zboj in 1866, its flight was visible from the High Tatras, over 200km away.