Saudi Arabia, once an exclusive club for the chosen few, such as pilgrims bound for Mecca, oil sheiks from Texas, contract workers from everywhere else, and the odd asylum-seeking dictator, now welcomes visitors on special visas. The cost is stiff, the restrictions intimidating, but the thrill of just being there is unbeatable. Delights for the intrepid, moneyed traveller include ancient souks in urban landscapes, antiquities half buried in the desert, a biblical sea and the heady taste of Arabian hospitality.

Best time to visit

November to February, when the days are warm and the nights cooler.

Essential experiences

exploring the spectacular rock tombs of Medain Salah; witnessing the sword dance ardha; judging the camel beauty contest near Hafar al Batin; visiting the ancient Masmak Fortress in Riyadh; sculpture-spotting along Jeddah's corniche.

In a few words, Saudi Arabia is

old souks and camel markets, dates and carpets, bearded men in robes greeting one another with hugs and kisses.

Did you know?

In Saudi Arabia it is customary to eat with your fingers - but never with your left hand as it a sign of disrespect.